Your needle and seat sound ok otherwise gas would be coming put your overflow hose.ġ. As mentioned you must fix this before trying to jet it may fix all your problems. OK, Great, your gas level is so high that it is causing your bike to run rich everywhere. I just did the tube test and the gas is 1/4 inch higher than where the float meets the bowl. Is slide tight in carb in does it have a lot of play?ĭoes anybody have experience using the cheap Chinese copy carbs for these motors? They are pretty cheap on eBay and I was thinking about replacing my old carb with one.Īmazon has them also, they seem to be ok but occasionally require jetting, try all the tests in yours first. What color is spark and is it strong and clearly visible? Gas should be around 1/8”-1/4” below where bowl and body meet. Rich from jets, high float level, leaking needle and seat or weak spark.Ĭonnect clear plastic tube to drain on carb if you have one, hold tube above carb ooen drain screw. Idle circuit plugged or too rich, set it to kb's spec. I have the fuel scew set to 3 turns out from closed right now and have tried playing with it but it doesn't seem to change anything. So far I have put a new plug in it and took apart the carb and cleaned it.ĭid you spray carb cleaner in holes and watch it come out in the carb body? Once it warms up it also has a bit of a hanging idle after the throttle is blipped, but after a few seconds the idle will drop very low and eventually stall.
1984 HONDA 200X FULL
It should require full choke at 55 or below. Typically rich on pilot or mix screw or high float level if it’s around 55 degrees or below. It starts first pull on half choke every time and idles okay until it warms up. Typically exhaust leak at head pipe, lean pilot or leaking fuel into engine from high float level. It also backfires through the exhaust on deceleration. Typically rich on pilot jet or mix screw too rich The problem I am having is once it warms up it won't idle. What i generally do to adjust idle is give it a little throttle to bring the slide up off the screw then adjust it and let it drop back to idle, haven't dinged one up yet. A dremel tool with a cutoff wheel works well to polish the bottom of the slide notch smooth again and the just clean up the end of the stop screw if needed. Pretty common problem.Īlso make sure the needle has the clip in the third groove and check the area of the slide where the stop screw hits it, a lot of people will adjust the idle stop screw with the slide rested on it, that will create a dent in the metal a lot of the time that causes it to hang a bit. The carb kits usually include both of those as they are generally a problem after removing a long time installed carb and they won't seal back up. There is also an o-ring between the intake and the head. The hanging idle once its warmed up could also be an air leak, i fought that for a while on one, it was the o-ring between the carb and the intake, since you had it apart and cleaned it, did you replace that o-ring? They get flat and hardened with age. The mix/pilot screw is about 2 1/4 turns stock, get it idling and let it warm up, then turn that screw in which is clockwise very slowly until the motor dies, then turn it back out counterclockwise one turn. I would say you still have an issue in the carb, did you pull the jets and really go through it, blowing compressed air through all the passages and soaking it good? I have had to let them sit in a can of carb dip for a day or two sometimes to clear out the passages when they get really bad. How did the plug look? Was it black and wet or? Reading the plug is a surefire way to know whats going on in a motor. Sounds like its running too rich with the backfiring, the hanging idle could be part of that as well.
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